You Like to Wear Your Shorts so Short

 

I will never forget a ridiculous woman I worked with telling me that once.  My skirts and shorts were apparently too short for her liking so one day as I walked past in short similar to these, she said "Well, you like to wear your shorts and skirts so short."  Out of nowhere, no context.  I just looked and her and said "yeah, well, I'm short and my legs are my best asset, so why not?"

Anyway, I'm here to introduce the newest prints available from Waymaker Fabrics (and show off my best asset).  This whole set of prints has a nautical theme and I just love it!  

I was a strike sewist for this round and I really had a hard time choosing just one print to strike!  

Maybe because we were in the depths of weeks of snow and frozen weather, or maybe because I live in a coastal town, this round of seaside prints really called my attention.  I knew I wanted to use the canvas as a base to make shorts and this Casting Nets on Slate really thrilled me. 

I've used the canvas from  Waymaker Fabrics  for pants, shorts, a skirt and bags and I am just so satisfied with it!  

It's lightweight but has structure. But not too much structure.  

It glides through all of my sewing machines, even with a couple of layers.  

It's soft on the inside so it doesn't feel like you're wearing burlap or like you've climbed inside an LLBean boat bag and you can't move.  

My every day school bag is made from the canvas and after using it every day for over a year, I can attest that it holds up really well.  There are no tears, no signs of wear and no fading.

Now back to the shorts.  When the fabric arrived, I was in the midst of adjusting the Henderson Pants pattern from Styla Patterns, so I was really excited to try it in "real" fabric. I am not an ambassador or tester for Styla Patterns, but I have to say the Hendersons have become my favorite pants pattern, by far.  I have had to make some adjustments but the fit right out of the box was not bad.  If anything, going by the size chart, I actually started out too large through the hips and thighs and had to take some of the bulk away.  Usually with pants, my "athletic thighs" break the bank and I'm all over the place with adding extra width.

The pattern has a shorts cut line, but something about the way the shorts fit felt too close to my thighs for shorts.  I have a specific feeling I want from my woven shorts, a certain circumference around my thighs, I guess, and I found the Hendersons to be more like "walking shorts" where they were a little too close.  I find this so puzzling because as pants, the width in the thighs is very generous and it's the same exact pattern, just cut higher. 

I have a theory.  When they are made as pants, the weight of the fabric from the length of the pants pulls the fabric out and away from the thighs.  When they are made as shorts, there's nothing to pull them down.  This theory is unscientifically based on many attempts to make cut offs from jeans and making shorts from pants patterns over the years.

My very favorite woven shorts pattern ever is the Chitown Chinos from Alina Design Co.  The ONLY reason I strayed from that pattern is that I wasn't a fan of the way the waistband is done.  I really like the waistband of the Hendersons, although it was too tall for my liking so I brought it down a half inch.  I noticed that the crotch depth and circumference of the thighs was slightly different form the Hendersons so I used them as a guide to make the Henderson shorts do what I wanted.

And they did!

Yes, there are wrinkles at the crotch but in real life, they are not as noticeable as I move. The more I learn about pants fitting, the more wrinkles across the front of pants have become my nemesis and I can't stop looking at everyone's pants all the time to see if there are wrinkles.  In real life, these are not as noticeable and most of the time I'm either moving or sitting down, so no one sees them.  

I think we are really mean to ourselves when we take frontal shots of pants and shorts and then get mad about the wrinkles because in reality, we aren't usually standing like this for people to examine our shorts and pants, right?  As a teacher, yes, I stood like this for 20 years, but normal people don't stand in front of an audience all day, every day, so let's stop getting so mad about wrinkles at the crotch!

You can see in this picture what I mean about my "athletic thighs".  I have ridiculous inner thigh muscles, probably from riding horses but also because I build muscles in my legs just by thinking about it. This extra bulk usually wreaks havoc with pants fitting.  This is also why I like a little extra room in the legs of my shorts.

The Hendersons pattern has a different fly insertion method than I prefer, so I completely changed how the fly is done.  I really like the way the Ginger Jeans from Closet Core Patterns does the fly, so I always transfer the whole process to any pants or jeans I make.  It's a no fail fly for me when I do it this way.

The pockets on this pattern are different from any I've done but I'm noticing this squared off pocket in a lot of ready to wear patterns I see out in public.  I didn't love them at first, but they are growing on me.

You can also see here how the waistband looks.  It's still taller than most of the waistbands I'm used to. My first versions kept folding over as I wore them.  I blamed my lower ribs hitting the waistband even though it's not a high rise.  I'm so short in my torso, I struggle a lot with waistbands.  I took .5 inches out of the waistband through the center and now it sits better and doesn't collide with my lower ribs.

You can also enjoy the tucked in look here because you won't see it again. I never tuck in my shirts and I'm highly unlikely to start now.  I always feel like a tucked in shirt emphasizes how short I am through my torso and it makes me feel even shorter and thicker than I am.

When I chose this fabric, I knew there wasn't really anything in my wardrobe that would specifically work with it.  Any neutral color would be fine, but the red in the lobsters kept calling to me.  It's like a Nantucket red.  That pinkish red you get when you wash a red sweatshirt a million times.  That's a color I'd wear a lot, so I asked if there was a heathered nautical red available and guess what?  There is!  It's a heathered nautical red and it's also available in this round.

The top is the Cecelia Tank and Bra from 5 out of 4 patterns.  I chose a  new modal French terry base from Waymaker Fabrics because I wanted to see how it compares to the old one they offered.  It doesn't have as much stretch and that caught me off guard.  I didn't realize how much less stretch it had until I put it on.  While the previous modal French terry would have hung looser, this one is pretty close fitting.  I love how the red printed on it and it matches the red in the shorts perfectly!

The nice thing about Waymaker Fabrics is that you get to choose from a variety of bases.  The print holds up really well.  I haven't had any ink fade in the  years I've been strike sewing for them.  This sweater is several years old and is as bright as the day the fabric arrived.  I was so excited to discover that this new nautical red is the exact color of one of the reds in this Fire Flowers print!

The only caution I have about ordering a print is that you think about whether or not the garment you're going to make will be seen on both sides, like cardigans, jackets, etc.  The print doesn't go all the way through the fabric, so the inside will be white or slightly off white.  This isn't a problem for pants, skirts, pullovers, etc.  but for something that will be open, you should be aware.  I learned this when I made the sweater above since it doesn't have buttons so it's always open.  When the wind flips it over, the back of the fabric shows and personally, I don't like that.

As always, pockets and facings fabric is something different from within my stash.  No one sees them unless they are doing my laundry, so it's my secret entertainment.  Some people call it pretty guts.  I usually choose something with some some of the colors of the main fabric and since that nautical red hasn't left my brain in months, I choose red for the inner fabric too.